Your New Betta...Day One!
I have created here a guide to your first day with your betta. This is a great guide on what to get before you get your new fish and how to learn the basics in its proper care. Even if you "think" you know everything, you may be surprised and learn something new!
When you are searching for a specific topic, please use ctrl+F to find your keyword.
I hope this assists you in caring for your new fish and helps diminish those first-time jitters and nervousness!
When you are searching for a specific topic, please use ctrl+F to find your keyword.
I hope this assists you in caring for your new fish and helps diminish those first-time jitters and nervousness!
First thing’s first, ask yourself these questions:
- Can I afford spending at least $40+ on tank/heaters/supplies?
- Am I willing to make possibly very frequent water changes, depending on my tank size?
- Am I ready for a creature that can live to up to five years?
- If I have to go on a trip, etc, can I get someone to look after my fish?
- Do I know the very basic info about a betta? (Research!)
- Am I willing to get the minimum size tank and the needed supplies for my pet?
If no to any of these, do not get a betta. They deserve the care and respect of any other pet, not unlike a dog or cat. If you are unable to get what you need, then wait. You wouldn’t get a horse without a big enough place to put it, right? Or a dog without food, right? Same for a betta!
If yes, then YAY! <3
Familiarize yourself with this site for research as well as researching on your own!
Quick info:
- Bettas are freshwater fish, so no salt!
- They are tropical fish who need to live in 76-83’ water.
- Bettas are highly aggressive and cannot live with any other bettas, even males with females..
o THEY WILL KILL EACHOTHER.
- Bettas, when you are inexperienced, should be left in their own tank. (Check compatibility later on)
- Bettas breathe air through a primitive lung called a “labyrinth organ”.
- Bettas need a gallon or more to live in to be comfortable. Even a gallon is a bit small.
- Bettas are hearty fish- but not invincible. Treat their lives with great respect.
-
Finally…Here’s Day One with my New Betta! :D
- Can I afford spending at least $40+ on tank/heaters/supplies?
- Am I willing to make possibly very frequent water changes, depending on my tank size?
- Am I ready for a creature that can live to up to five years?
- If I have to go on a trip, etc, can I get someone to look after my fish?
- Do I know the very basic info about a betta? (Research!)
- Am I willing to get the minimum size tank and the needed supplies for my pet?
If no to any of these, do not get a betta. They deserve the care and respect of any other pet, not unlike a dog or cat. If you are unable to get what you need, then wait. You wouldn’t get a horse without a big enough place to put it, right? Or a dog without food, right? Same for a betta!
If yes, then YAY! <3
Familiarize yourself with this site for research as well as researching on your own!
Quick info:
- Bettas are freshwater fish, so no salt!
- They are tropical fish who need to live in 76-83’ water.
- Bettas are highly aggressive and cannot live with any other bettas, even males with females..
o THEY WILL KILL EACHOTHER.
- Bettas, when you are inexperienced, should be left in their own tank. (Check compatibility later on)
- Bettas breathe air through a primitive lung called a “labyrinth organ”.
- Bettas need a gallon or more to live in to be comfortable. Even a gallon is a bit small.
- Bettas are hearty fish- but not invincible. Treat their lives with great respect.
-
Finally…Here’s Day One with my New Betta! :D
Purchase
Where should/ can I get my betta?
- You can get a betta in many places. They range from local pet shops (LPS), Local fish shops (LFS), to Walmarts, Petsmarts and PetCos and to Aquabid.com! There are tons of places, shop where the fish look healthiest.
How do I tell the fish I want is a good candidate for purchase? (First timers!)
- Look for a betta that is moving around or will react to you putting your finger near/on its cup. If one is flaring at another betta or you, it is a good sign, too.
- Fish that have no visible deformities (no missing eyes, fins, scales, etc.)
- Fish that are not floating at the top of the cup and can’t come down (not necessarily dead- they may have Swim Bladder Disorder (SBD) that hinders their ability to swim right.)
- Fish that are not covered in a fuzzy looking substance or covered in small, white dots (bacterial infections/ich).
- Fish whose tails that do not look like they’ve been torn to shreds. This is likely fin rot or, in advanced cases, body rot. It is a bacterium that eats away the betta’s fins.
*Please note! I am recommending FIRST TIME OWNERS to stay away from such ailments- they may have trouble healing a fish with an issue such as these and should probably try getting a healthier buddy first to learn from!
- You can get a betta in many places. They range from local pet shops (LPS), Local fish shops (LFS), to Walmarts, Petsmarts and PetCos and to Aquabid.com! There are tons of places, shop where the fish look healthiest.
How do I tell the fish I want is a good candidate for purchase? (First timers!)
- Look for a betta that is moving around or will react to you putting your finger near/on its cup. If one is flaring at another betta or you, it is a good sign, too.
- Fish that have no visible deformities (no missing eyes, fins, scales, etc.)
- Fish that are not floating at the top of the cup and can’t come down (not necessarily dead- they may have Swim Bladder Disorder (SBD) that hinders their ability to swim right.)
- Fish that are not covered in a fuzzy looking substance or covered in small, white dots (bacterial infections/ich).
- Fish whose tails that do not look like they’ve been torn to shreds. This is likely fin rot or, in advanced cases, body rot. It is a bacterium that eats away the betta’s fins.
*Please note! I am recommending FIRST TIME OWNERS to stay away from such ailments- they may have trouble healing a fish with an issue such as these and should probably try getting a healthier buddy first to learn from!
There are so many types! How do I tell which is Male/female?
- As a general rule, males have longer fins and are usually larger. They also have “beards” that flare out much larger and more often.
- Some males have shorter tails that look “female”. These are Plakats!
- The cups they come in often will say their gender. Take these with a grain of salt, as they can sometimes be incorrect.
- As a general rule, males have longer fins and are usually larger. They also have “beards” that flare out much larger and more often.
- Some males have shorter tails that look “female”. These are Plakats!
- The cups they come in often will say their gender. Take these with a grain of salt, as they can sometimes be incorrect.
(Habitat, bowls, filters)
I bought my fish! Now what?
- Get ahomefor your friend, and do it at the same time you buy them.
o DO NOT believe the pet store people completely. They almost never know quite what they are talking about, even with good intentions!
o That said, it is highly recommended you stay away from “designer” betta “homes”. These are often so small they are CRUEL. Anything under a half gallon is hard to manage even for experienced keepers; even a gallon requires lots of care. (Bigger is better!)
o It is recommended that new owners purchase 1.5-2 gallons PLUS! This makes care a bit more manageable. As per the recommendation of this site, 2.5 gallons and up is ideal.
o Bettas need AIR! Make sure your tank has room at the surface for them to breathe!
o Bettas JUMP! Make sure your tank has some sort of lid with holes. Even bowls need this- if you don’t have a lid, make one out of plastic wrap and punch holes into it.
o Make sure your tank has enough space for a heater, the fish, some decorations/plants and possibly substrate (gravel, sand, marbles, etc.).
o Filters are recommended, but not necessary per se. In tanks under 2.5 gallons, they allow you to not have to do full, 100% water changes, which is a plus. In larger tanks, it allows for less frequent large changes and gives you the opportunity to “cycle” a tank.
o Unless the tank comes with the filter, you really must research this topic to meet your needs. Again, you don’t need a filter for a 100gallon in a 2.5 gallon and vice versa!
- Get ahomefor your friend, and do it at the same time you buy them.
o DO NOT believe the pet store people completely. They almost never know quite what they are talking about, even with good intentions!
o That said, it is highly recommended you stay away from “designer” betta “homes”. These are often so small they are CRUEL. Anything under a half gallon is hard to manage even for experienced keepers; even a gallon requires lots of care. (Bigger is better!)
o It is recommended that new owners purchase 1.5-2 gallons PLUS! This makes care a bit more manageable. As per the recommendation of this site, 2.5 gallons and up is ideal.
o Bettas need AIR! Make sure your tank has room at the surface for them to breathe!
o Bettas JUMP! Make sure your tank has some sort of lid with holes. Even bowls need this- if you don’t have a lid, make one out of plastic wrap and punch holes into it.
o Make sure your tank has enough space for a heater, the fish, some decorations/plants and possibly substrate (gravel, sand, marbles, etc.).
o Filters are recommended, but not necessary per se. In tanks under 2.5 gallons, they allow you to not have to do full, 100% water changes, which is a plus. In larger tanks, it allows for less frequent large changes and gives you the opportunity to “cycle” a tank.
o Unless the tank comes with the filter, you really must research this topic to meet your needs. Again, you don’t need a filter for a 100gallon in a 2.5 gallon and vice versa!
(Heaters and thermometers)
I bought the home, its 1.5 gallons+! Now what?
- Now to a heater! BETTAS NEED A HEATER. No ifs ands or buts. They do.
- Bettas are tropical fish that require temps between 76-83’ F. Anything lower can cause stress and discomfort. If you “can’t get a heater for x,y,z reason”, then dont get a betta. You wouldn’t live in the Arctic without a coat, right? Don’t do it to them, either.
- There are a huge number of different heaters out there, ranging in size, shape, wattage (power), price, etc. Take into account that most good heaters cost upwards of at least $15!
- Certain stores have limited sizes and brands. Research possibilities beforehand. Ask members on the site what they recommend in terms of brand, too!
- A general rule of thumb: Size of the tank and wattage does matter. You don’t need a 150W heater for a 2 gallon tank. You also wont see good results from a 10w heater in a 10+ gallon!
- Anything at or under 2 gallons is hard to heat correctly, remember that! (Go bigger on the tank!)
- There are both “preset” heaters, ones that automatically set the temp. to a preset number but may be unreliable/inaccurate and “settable” heaters, where you need to fiddle with the number to find an accurate, good temp. To do this, you need a thermometer.
- You need a thermometer just as badly as a heater to monitor the tank. If your water shot up to 90’ and you didn’t know, your fish will probably die. Same thing if it fell below 65’ (or even higher…)
- Thermometers come in many types, most commonly free floating, suction cup (recommended) and outside the tank stick-ons (not recommended). The latter are often very inaccurate.
- Thermometers are usually no more than $1.50-$3. There is no excuse to not get one. You wouldn’t get a dog and no food, right? It’s the same thing.
- Now to a heater! BETTAS NEED A HEATER. No ifs ands or buts. They do.
- Bettas are tropical fish that require temps between 76-83’ F. Anything lower can cause stress and discomfort. If you “can’t get a heater for x,y,z reason”, then dont get a betta. You wouldn’t live in the Arctic without a coat, right? Don’t do it to them, either.
- There are a huge number of different heaters out there, ranging in size, shape, wattage (power), price, etc. Take into account that most good heaters cost upwards of at least $15!
- Certain stores have limited sizes and brands. Research possibilities beforehand. Ask members on the site what they recommend in terms of brand, too!
- A general rule of thumb: Size of the tank and wattage does matter. You don’t need a 150W heater for a 2 gallon tank. You also wont see good results from a 10w heater in a 10+ gallon!
- Anything at or under 2 gallons is hard to heat correctly, remember that! (Go bigger on the tank!)
- There are both “preset” heaters, ones that automatically set the temp. to a preset number but may be unreliable/inaccurate and “settable” heaters, where you need to fiddle with the number to find an accurate, good temp. To do this, you need a thermometer.
- You need a thermometer just as badly as a heater to monitor the tank. If your water shot up to 90’ and you didn’t know, your fish will probably die. Same thing if it fell below 65’ (or even higher…)
- Thermometers come in many types, most commonly free floating, suction cup (recommended) and outside the tank stick-ons (not recommended). The latter are often very inaccurate.
- Thermometers are usually no more than $1.50-$3. There is no excuse to not get one. You wouldn’t get a dog and no food, right? It’s the same thing.
(Décor , plants, substrate- gravel, etc.)
Tank, heater, thermometer, check! Now what?
- Now the fun(er) part! Decorating your tank. This is largely now up to your personal taste, but it is important to keep these things in mind.
o While some decorations make look cool, if they are at all sharp or rough, they can and likely will tear apart your fish’s fins. If it can snag a pair of panty hose, it’ll snag their fins. Also, if it hurts you, it’ll hurt them!
o Silk plants (fake) are usually your best bet. Get ones that fit the tank nicely and that are soft, don’t show any signs of exposed metal and are of good quality.
o Plastic plants can be great- but sometimes aren’t! Check with your hand by squeezing if they’re too hard/crunchy- if it hurts, don’t buy it. If they’re rough to the touch, don’t get those, either. Don’t be afraid to bring a pair of hosiery in to test them- you wouldn’t be the first. ;)
o Real plants are great! But be warned! Some can be hard to care for. If inexperienced, go for plants that require low to very low light, no fertilizer and no CO2. Make sure YOU do the research about what you want to buy before you buy it- some plants may not be “fully aquatic” (cant live completely in water) even though they say they do. FIND OUT BEFORE YOU BUY!!!
o Look for healthy plants, free of small snails, browning/dead/dying leaves and mold!
o Caves and the like are cool- but make sure that inside (TEST THIS OUT!!) they are smooth and not rough. Also make sure that each hole in the cave is at least a quarter’s size around. If not, your betta might get stuck and can either drown or badly injured.
o Even holes that don’t “look” small enough can entice them to squeeze their heads in- seriously. Anything under a quarter or so in size should not be bought or filled up!
o This goes the same for terracotta pots!! Make sure this is addressed before putting anything with holes into the tank!
o Substrates- that is, gravel, marbles, sand, etc- make your tank look great and help anchor plants and decorations. Getting these is not required, though. Some people choose to have “bare bottom” tanks for easier cleaning, which is a great idea.
o Unfortunately, there are many products on the market that are not made with the fish’s well-being in mind. Any “gems” that are sharp, pointed, etc., should not be used as substrate. Also, make sure what you’re using is for aquariums/non-toxic- the color may leak into your tank causing damage!
o A net is a useful tool, but be warned- it can cause your bettas fins harm. Some people like them, others do not. Get one that is made very fine and the right size for your fish and its tank.
- Now the fun(er) part! Decorating your tank. This is largely now up to your personal taste, but it is important to keep these things in mind.
o While some decorations make look cool, if they are at all sharp or rough, they can and likely will tear apart your fish’s fins. If it can snag a pair of panty hose, it’ll snag their fins. Also, if it hurts you, it’ll hurt them!
o Silk plants (fake) are usually your best bet. Get ones that fit the tank nicely and that are soft, don’t show any signs of exposed metal and are of good quality.
o Plastic plants can be great- but sometimes aren’t! Check with your hand by squeezing if they’re too hard/crunchy- if it hurts, don’t buy it. If they’re rough to the touch, don’t get those, either. Don’t be afraid to bring a pair of hosiery in to test them- you wouldn’t be the first. ;)
o Real plants are great! But be warned! Some can be hard to care for. If inexperienced, go for plants that require low to very low light, no fertilizer and no CO2. Make sure YOU do the research about what you want to buy before you buy it- some plants may not be “fully aquatic” (cant live completely in water) even though they say they do. FIND OUT BEFORE YOU BUY!!!
o Look for healthy plants, free of small snails, browning/dead/dying leaves and mold!
o Caves and the like are cool- but make sure that inside (TEST THIS OUT!!) they are smooth and not rough. Also make sure that each hole in the cave is at least a quarter’s size around. If not, your betta might get stuck and can either drown or badly injured.
o Even holes that don’t “look” small enough can entice them to squeeze their heads in- seriously. Anything under a quarter or so in size should not be bought or filled up!
o This goes the same for terracotta pots!! Make sure this is addressed before putting anything with holes into the tank!
o Substrates- that is, gravel, marbles, sand, etc- make your tank look great and help anchor plants and decorations. Getting these is not required, though. Some people choose to have “bare bottom” tanks for easier cleaning, which is a great idea.
o Unfortunately, there are many products on the market that are not made with the fish’s well-being in mind. Any “gems” that are sharp, pointed, etc., should not be used as substrate. Also, make sure what you’re using is for aquariums/non-toxic- the color may leak into your tank causing damage!
o A net is a useful tool, but be warned- it can cause your bettas fins harm. Some people like them, others do not. Get one that is made very fine and the right size for your fish and its tank.
(Conditioner, aquarium salt, medicines, food)
I’ve got my fish’s home! What now?!
- Hoohoo! Great! Now it’s time for some VERY important purchases. These next few things can be just as crucial to get as a heater and food!!
o Food! Obviously very important! You need to get your new friend food. But what kinds? There are tons of brands out there and many types of foods.
o Look for foods that have good amounts of vitamins/protein in them. Most foods do alright with this, so essentially look for a good brand you’ve researched or asked the forum about!
o Pellets are possibly the easiest food to buy and feed, I recommend them! They are small to very small in size and usually say “betta” or “tropical” on them.
o Flakes work alright but tend to make a mess of the tank because the amount is much harder to control. They will usually say “tropical” but might say “betta”. Before you get flakes, I’d recommend pellets.
o Live food is harder to do and can have risks such as parasites and unwanted bacteria. Use at your own risk and research first.
o Freeze-dried foods are SNACKS! They are NOT for all the time feedings! These are inexpensive and should be fed once or maybe twice a week in small doses. They are usually freeze-dried bloodworms. They have little nutritional value and can bloat your betta or cause them to lose weight.
- Water Conditioner is extremely important! YOU NEED THIS!
o Water conditioner neutralizes the chemicals such as chlorine in your tap water as well as heavy metals. YOU NEED TO HAVE THIS! NEED TO!
o It comes in a variety of brands, but is almost always the same thing (lol!) As long as it removes the aforementioned things, it’s usually good. Buy a size that fits well for your tank- if you have a 2 gallon but the dosing is 1tsp per 100 gallons, that’s NOT the right one for you! Find ones that dose closely to your needs- if you have 2 gallons, find one that uses a drop per half gallon or a drop a gallon. J
o Ask around for what brands people like to use.
o Again, this stuff isn’t very expensive, usually $3-$10+. There is no excuse for not buying this. You wouldn’t want to live in a house with poison in the air, right? You’d want it removed, chlorine is like their poison!
o Aquarium salt is another thing that is a good idea to pick up before you purchase your betta. Aquarium salt is very versatile and comes in large amounts for a relatively low cost.
o “AQ” salt is used to treat fin rot, ich (of used right!), stress and open wounds. It is not salt like the one you use on your fries! It is a good idea to get it beforehand in case you need it.
o REGULAR “SALT” LIKE FROM YOUR TABLE DOES NOT BELONG/BELONG IN LARGE AMOUNTS IN YOUR BETTA TANK. It will kill your betta! They are freshwater fish!
o Medicines can be tricky to by before they are needed. Please research which brands and types are recommended before use and purchase. You do not need to get any medicines prior to getting the fish, though note- there is a high chance you will need to get at least something to treat a fish in the future!
o Water testing drops/strips are recommended but not needed per se. If you intend to cycle your tank, get a “master kit” that measures everything, including ammonia. If you do not, get ammonia tests to establish a good regimen for water changes in the tank.
o Please note that strips tend to be more expensive over time and less reliable.
*A note about using distilled/bottled water:
DON'T USE IT!!
These types of water lack any minerals that your betta needs to have to remain healthy. It is also much much more expensive in the long and short run to do this. Do not use this. Just get water conditioner. Do not use this.
- Hoohoo! Great! Now it’s time for some VERY important purchases. These next few things can be just as crucial to get as a heater and food!!
o Food! Obviously very important! You need to get your new friend food. But what kinds? There are tons of brands out there and many types of foods.
o Look for foods that have good amounts of vitamins/protein in them. Most foods do alright with this, so essentially look for a good brand you’ve researched or asked the forum about!
o Pellets are possibly the easiest food to buy and feed, I recommend them! They are small to very small in size and usually say “betta” or “tropical” on them.
o Flakes work alright but tend to make a mess of the tank because the amount is much harder to control. They will usually say “tropical” but might say “betta”. Before you get flakes, I’d recommend pellets.
o Live food is harder to do and can have risks such as parasites and unwanted bacteria. Use at your own risk and research first.
o Freeze-dried foods are SNACKS! They are NOT for all the time feedings! These are inexpensive and should be fed once or maybe twice a week in small doses. They are usually freeze-dried bloodworms. They have little nutritional value and can bloat your betta or cause them to lose weight.
- Water Conditioner is extremely important! YOU NEED THIS!
o Water conditioner neutralizes the chemicals such as chlorine in your tap water as well as heavy metals. YOU NEED TO HAVE THIS! NEED TO!
o It comes in a variety of brands, but is almost always the same thing (lol!) As long as it removes the aforementioned things, it’s usually good. Buy a size that fits well for your tank- if you have a 2 gallon but the dosing is 1tsp per 100 gallons, that’s NOT the right one for you! Find ones that dose closely to your needs- if you have 2 gallons, find one that uses a drop per half gallon or a drop a gallon. J
o Ask around for what brands people like to use.
o Again, this stuff isn’t very expensive, usually $3-$10+. There is no excuse for not buying this. You wouldn’t want to live in a house with poison in the air, right? You’d want it removed, chlorine is like their poison!
o Aquarium salt is another thing that is a good idea to pick up before you purchase your betta. Aquarium salt is very versatile and comes in large amounts for a relatively low cost.
o “AQ” salt is used to treat fin rot, ich (of used right!), stress and open wounds. It is not salt like the one you use on your fries! It is a good idea to get it beforehand in case you need it.
o REGULAR “SALT” LIKE FROM YOUR TABLE DOES NOT BELONG/BELONG IN LARGE AMOUNTS IN YOUR BETTA TANK. It will kill your betta! They are freshwater fish!
o Medicines can be tricky to by before they are needed. Please research which brands and types are recommended before use and purchase. You do not need to get any medicines prior to getting the fish, though note- there is a high chance you will need to get at least something to treat a fish in the future!
o Water testing drops/strips are recommended but not needed per se. If you intend to cycle your tank, get a “master kit” that measures everything, including ammonia. If you do not, get ammonia tests to establish a good regimen for water changes in the tank.
o Please note that strips tend to be more expensive over time and less reliable.
*A note about using distilled/bottled water:
DON'T USE IT!!
These types of water lack any minerals that your betta needs to have to remain healthy. It is also much much more expensive in the long and short run to do this. Do not use this. Just get water conditioner. Do not use this.
(Setting up the tank)
We're home! What now?
- Yaaayyy! Welcome home, little fish! Now is a fun time for the both of you, if you do it right!
1. Find a warm spot for you cupped/bagged betta to wait in. Fill up a (clean, rinsed with hot water) sink with a few inches of warm (NOT HOT!) water and float the cup in there. Do not allow it to touch the bottom of the sink where all the cruds are! Or put it under a warm light (don’t do this for too long, its stressful!) You can even leave it out, so long as it isn’t too cold- for now.
2. Now that the fish is settled, take out all of your new stuff and make sure you have all that you need! Take the tank and rinse it in very hot water for a few minutes, until clean and free of dusts, etc. NEVER EVER EVER USE SOAP TO CLEAN ANYTHING IN THE TANK! EVER!
3. Clean the substrate you chose (if you did) the same way, as well as plants and decorations.
4. Clean the heater off with water that is warm, but not hot. It can damage the heater! Same for the thermometer and filter.
5. If your filter has cartages, rinse them off and allow them to soak in water to activate, as per directions.
6. Take your substrate and add it into the empty tank. From here, I advise you to put in some room-temp/lukewarm water, about a few inches. This will soften the blow when you add the rest of the water.
7. Put the heater in according to its directions (Read them!!) but don’t plug in. Same if you have a filter.
8. Add plants and decorations, keeping them away enough to the heater. Make sure your betta cant wedge themselves between your tank wall, filter/heater or the plants.
9. Add your thermometer to the tank, keeping it mid-level to get an accurate reading (if a suction cup one). Keep it where you can easily see it and not too close to the heater for accurate readings.
10. Gently and slowly(!!!) add TAP WATER that is room temp(ish)/lukewarm to the tank. Try not to disturb your new set up! J
11. Put in the water to about ¾ full. Put your heater to a proper level (directions!) as well as the filter the same way. Check the thermometer to see the temp. of the tank. If the tank is over 85’, put in some cold water until it is below or at 80’ (preferably lower).When at the right temp, add similar temp water to fill the rest, with some space to breathe.
12. Once that is done, turn on the filter and heater and allow them to run for a little while, at least 10 minutes (or to directions). Use this time to admire and check on your new friend.
13. Once done, check to see the temp, etc. is at or below 80-82’ Try to aim for 78-80 for now, if you can. Make sure the filter’s current isn’t too disruptive. Large waves or bubbles are not good for a betta, they like calm, flat water for breathing. If you can adjust the filter to do this, do it, if not- for the time being, shut the filter off until you can learn to baffle it.
14. Now add your water conditioner. Do it to the appropriate dose/gallon. Let this sit for a minute or two.
- Yaaayyy! Welcome home, little fish! Now is a fun time for the both of you, if you do it right!
1. Find a warm spot for you cupped/bagged betta to wait in. Fill up a (clean, rinsed with hot water) sink with a few inches of warm (NOT HOT!) water and float the cup in there. Do not allow it to touch the bottom of the sink where all the cruds are! Or put it under a warm light (don’t do this for too long, its stressful!) You can even leave it out, so long as it isn’t too cold- for now.
2. Now that the fish is settled, take out all of your new stuff and make sure you have all that you need! Take the tank and rinse it in very hot water for a few minutes, until clean and free of dusts, etc. NEVER EVER EVER USE SOAP TO CLEAN ANYTHING IN THE TANK! EVER!
3. Clean the substrate you chose (if you did) the same way, as well as plants and decorations.
4. Clean the heater off with water that is warm, but not hot. It can damage the heater! Same for the thermometer and filter.
5. If your filter has cartages, rinse them off and allow them to soak in water to activate, as per directions.
6. Take your substrate and add it into the empty tank. From here, I advise you to put in some room-temp/lukewarm water, about a few inches. This will soften the blow when you add the rest of the water.
7. Put the heater in according to its directions (Read them!!) but don’t plug in. Same if you have a filter.
8. Add plants and decorations, keeping them away enough to the heater. Make sure your betta cant wedge themselves between your tank wall, filter/heater or the plants.
9. Add your thermometer to the tank, keeping it mid-level to get an accurate reading (if a suction cup one). Keep it where you can easily see it and not too close to the heater for accurate readings.
10. Gently and slowly(!!!) add TAP WATER that is room temp(ish)/lukewarm to the tank. Try not to disturb your new set up! J
11. Put in the water to about ¾ full. Put your heater to a proper level (directions!) as well as the filter the same way. Check the thermometer to see the temp. of the tank. If the tank is over 85’, put in some cold water until it is below or at 80’ (preferably lower).When at the right temp, add similar temp water to fill the rest, with some space to breathe.
12. Once that is done, turn on the filter and heater and allow them to run for a little while, at least 10 minutes (or to directions). Use this time to admire and check on your new friend.
13. Once done, check to see the temp, etc. is at or below 80-82’ Try to aim for 78-80 for now, if you can. Make sure the filter’s current isn’t too disruptive. Large waves or bubbles are not good for a betta, they like calm, flat water for breathing. If you can adjust the filter to do this, do it, if not- for the time being, shut the filter off until you can learn to baffle it.
14. Now add your water conditioner. Do it to the appropriate dose/gallon. Let this sit for a minute or two.
15. Retrieve your new betta from wherever you kept it. If you had it in a sink, wash its cup or bag thoroughly (no soap!) but gently to get anything off from the sink you can. Place your betta to “bob” in the tank at the top. Note: If in a cup (which should have holes at the top), make sure the cup does not sink! Keep it upright to avoid drowning your friend.
16. Allow your betta to “bob” for about 5 minutes to get used to the temperature of the tank. After 5 minutes, add a small amount of the new tank’s water to its cup to “acclimate” to it.
17. Repeat this step at least 2 more times for at least 10 or so minutes. If you do not, you run the risk of killing your fish due to shock. The longer, the better! Try for a half hour.
18. Now comes a potentially tricky part- have paper towels on hand! Remove your bettas cup from bobbing. You can do this one of two ways:
a. Netting method: This method requires you to carefully hold the (cleaned!) net over a sink and gently pour out some of the cup’s water, being careful not to drop the betta out. Aim to get as many nasties out as you can. With some water still in the cup, pour the water and betta into the net gently, so it falls softly in the net and the water leaves. Gently place the net into the tank and let it swim out gently.
b. Cup method: Carefully drain a large amount of the cup’s water out into a sink, without letting your fish fall out. Return to the tank with a little water left in the cup and plop the betta in- avoid letting as much icky cup water in as possible!
16. Allow your betta to “bob” for about 5 minutes to get used to the temperature of the tank. After 5 minutes, add a small amount of the new tank’s water to its cup to “acclimate” to it.
17. Repeat this step at least 2 more times for at least 10 or so minutes. If you do not, you run the risk of killing your fish due to shock. The longer, the better! Try for a half hour.
18. Now comes a potentially tricky part- have paper towels on hand! Remove your bettas cup from bobbing. You can do this one of two ways:
a. Netting method: This method requires you to carefully hold the (cleaned!) net over a sink and gently pour out some of the cup’s water, being careful not to drop the betta out. Aim to get as many nasties out as you can. With some water still in the cup, pour the water and betta into the net gently, so it falls softly in the net and the water leaves. Gently place the net into the tank and let it swim out gently.
b. Cup method: Carefully drain a large amount of the cup’s water out into a sink, without letting your fish fall out. Return to the tank with a little water left in the cup and plop the betta in- avoid letting as much icky cup water in as possible!
My fish is in its tank! Yay!
1. Watch your betta. Some bettas might be scared and stay still, while their gills move heavily, and others might start summing around right away. Different bettas do different things, and this is a stressful time!
2. When your betta becomes more comfy and they swim around, make sure the filter’s outlet/waterfall isn’t too strong and they aren’t being pushed down by it or sucked in by the intake! This can cause serious issues. If this is happening, turn it off and research what needs to be done until then.
3. Make sure your curious little friend doesn’t find anywhere to wedge themselves. If it appears they might have found a place, move or remove it.
4. Don’t feed your betta for a few hours, let them just relax! Keep the lights off in the tank and around them to de-stress. After a few hours or the next morning, give them one pellet and see if they nom. If they do, you can either choose to give them a second at that time, or you can space the feedings out more frequently. Feedings of normal sized pellets should not exceed two at once or more than 4-5 a day. Do not trust the packaging directions in most cases- they may say to feed upwards of 10! Doing so will hurt your friend.
5. Establish a feeding routine that is comfortable for you, and for them!
6. Keep checking that the temperature, water parameters, etc are in line.
Make sure that your water changes are done frequently! Bettas need clean water. Not cleaning the tank and changing the water is CRUEL. Ammonia builds up and hurts them, which will lead to death at high levels or if prolonged.
A general rule of thumb is:
Tanks under a gallon- 100% water changes every day.
One gallon- Either 100% each day or 50% one day, 100% the next
Etc. If you are unsure, ask! No tank that is not cycled and under 10 gallons should be changed exceeding more than 4+ days in between.
Remember to check the ammonia levels! .5ppm is STRESSFUL and painful and above 1ppm can be DEADLY.
When doing a water change, you must acclimate and bob your betta like the first time!
1. Watch your betta. Some bettas might be scared and stay still, while their gills move heavily, and others might start summing around right away. Different bettas do different things, and this is a stressful time!
2. When your betta becomes more comfy and they swim around, make sure the filter’s outlet/waterfall isn’t too strong and they aren’t being pushed down by it or sucked in by the intake! This can cause serious issues. If this is happening, turn it off and research what needs to be done until then.
3. Make sure your curious little friend doesn’t find anywhere to wedge themselves. If it appears they might have found a place, move or remove it.
4. Don’t feed your betta for a few hours, let them just relax! Keep the lights off in the tank and around them to de-stress. After a few hours or the next morning, give them one pellet and see if they nom. If they do, you can either choose to give them a second at that time, or you can space the feedings out more frequently. Feedings of normal sized pellets should not exceed two at once or more than 4-5 a day. Do not trust the packaging directions in most cases- they may say to feed upwards of 10! Doing so will hurt your friend.
5. Establish a feeding routine that is comfortable for you, and for them!
6. Keep checking that the temperature, water parameters, etc are in line.
Make sure that your water changes are done frequently! Bettas need clean water. Not cleaning the tank and changing the water is CRUEL. Ammonia builds up and hurts them, which will lead to death at high levels or if prolonged.
A general rule of thumb is:
Tanks under a gallon- 100% water changes every day.
One gallon- Either 100% each day or 50% one day, 100% the next
Etc. If you are unsure, ask! No tank that is not cycled and under 10 gallons should be changed exceeding more than 4+ days in between.
Remember to check the ammonia levels! .5ppm is STRESSFUL and painful and above 1ppm can be DEADLY.
When doing a water change, you must acclimate and bob your betta like the first time!
